Andrew Gn’s Spring Collection is inspired by the camp classic “Boom!” – but not so much for the histrionic performance of Elizabeth Taylor as for her memorable wardrobe, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the Italian brand Tiziani.
“She has always been my icon”, declared the designer in preview in his Parisian showroom. Gn loves a good ’60s time, and he channeled Taylor’s flowing outfits with items such as high-necked blouses with opulent jewel buttons and a white kaftan with a sequined collar and a striking red coral print.
Corals have been a recurring theme in his collections since 2005 and this season he partnered with the Great Barrier Reef Foundation on an awareness campaign to save endangered reefs.
The collection film was shot at the National Museum of the History of Immigration, one of Gn’s favorite museums and a gem of Art Deco architecture. Her brightly colored reception hall was the perfect nod to the outfits, which came in a palette of black and white, dotted with vibrant hues of jewelry.
Most striking were the new shoulder proportions, ranging from the shelf shape, on mini dresses, tailored jackets and jumpsuits, to the mutton style, like the English embroidery sleeves on an hourglass evening dress. immaculate white.
Gn, who was a fan of shoulder pads as a teenager in the 1980s, has always favored small shoulders in his collections. âAll of a sudden I felt that coming out of the pandemic it was a bloody jungle for women,â he said. âI just want to prepare the women. It’s psychological.
The designer has seen an increase in demand for formal wear, but said customers are looking for simpler alternatives. This season, he has used virtually no embroidery, instead focusing on bold shapes and striking details, such as the oversized metallic buttons on a cropped black jumpsuit.
âIn fact, the jumpsuit is a new way to dress for the evening,â said Gn. âPeople dress, but they don’t dress the same. It may come later. People want to go out, but they don’t necessarily want an all-beaded dress. I think it’s all about understated elegance now.